I don't have time to mess around with fussy homemade beauty products, but I sure love when I find something simple (and affordable) that works. That's why I was drawn to the oil cleansing method – basically cleaning your face with oil. I've had some pitfalls along the way, so I'm hoping you can learn from my mistakes and eventual success.
As a teen I was riddled with acne. Dermatologists told me again and again that it had nothing to do with food, so I continued to devour my “standard American” fare – Micky-D's fries, poptarts, and all. Meanwhile, I took antibiotics for years, slathered Retin-A on my young skin, and tried drying, toxic face cleansers and products like it was my job.
It wasn't until years later that I really understood how internal health – specifically digestion/gut flora – is directly related to the appearance and health of our skin.
With a clean diet (and plenty of gut healing), I've been able to mostly avoid breakouts. While what I put ON my skin is still important, I now know that what goes into my body is just as important.
My aversion to skin care products
As you might imagine, after years of using topical skincare products with mediocre to detrimental results, I grew to be suspicious of all of it.
For years, I simply washed my face with castille soap (on the advice of a esthetician) and used a bit of coconut oil to moisturize when my skin felt dry.
My breakouts still existed but seemed manageable enough, and I chalked a bad day up to hormones or poor food choices.
I discovered the oil cleansing method
When my friend, Heather Dessinger of Mommypotamus released her book DIY Beauty, I learned some things about skincare that surprised me.
I always believed toners were a scam, until Heather taught me how the right toner can correct the pH imbalance that may occur any time you wash your face with soap, thereby removing your skin's natural mantle of oils.
Crap. I guess I needed toner.
Then I learned about the oil cleansing method, which is basically using oil to clean and nourish your skin instead of soap. While most ladies avoid putting oil on their skin for fear of clogged pores, the oil actually does the exact opposite.
The oil helps to break down and remove dirt (and makeup), and a hot cloth steams open pores to cleanse deeply.
Brilliant! Sounded like that might eliminate the need for a toner AND a moisturizer. I was sold.
With that, I reallocated a jar of coconut oil from my kitchen pantry to my bathroom counter.
For months and months, I would scoop out a bit of oil, rub it all over my face, then use a clean, wet washcloth (hot as possible) to steam and then wipe down my face. Easy-peasy.
Since coconut oil is anti-microbial, I figured I was doing double duty with the cleansing, and for the most part I was loving my new, simple and cheap skin care routine.
How I failed at the oil cleansing method
After a while of doing the oil cleansing method, I started to wonder why I was still having acne breakouts along my jawline.
As this is the tell-tale area for hormone imbalance, I figured I needed to get my hormones sorted out.
I started supplementing with calcium d-glucarate (I use this one), which helps the body to detoxify excess estrogen. I cut back on sugar (ahem… ok, wine and cookies). And while this helped, my skin still wasn't as clear as I would like.
THEN, on a whim, I started to do some deeper research into the oil cleansing method.
Turns out that coconut oil (as well as olive oil) can actually be comedogenic – a.k.a. pore clogging… Eureka! (Thanks, Crunchy Betty.)
Fine tuning the oil cleansing method to work for me
After my little discovery about the pore clogging nature of coconut oil and olive oil, I started to pay closer attention to what I slathered all over my face. After only a little trial and error, here's what I settled on:
My personal oil blend for cleansing:
1 part castor oil
Thick and cleansing, but can be drying, so experiment to find the best ratio for you – This is the organic castor oil I use. You can get cheaper if you go conventional, but be sure to buy cold-pressed and hexane-free.
3 parts avocado oil
Great for dry skin, so blended with a bit of castor oil it's a nice combo. I buy organic California avocado oil from my local store. But if you prefer to buy it online, this one is good and affordable. Since avocados are thick skinned and the trees don't need a lot of chemical maintenance, organic is not absolutely essential.
Neem oil (about 1 teaspoon per 2 cups base oil)
This stuff smells GNARLY – like rotting onion skins – but strangely, I sort of love it. Neem has been credited with helping acne, aging skin, and inflammation, so I love it all the more. Many versions for neem are cut with a carrier oil because neem is solid at room temperature. I prefer this pure neem oil, and melt it before combining it with the other oils by putting the bottle in a cup of hot water.
Other oils to try:
While this blend works great for me (no more break outs!), some other oils you may want to try as your base (with or without castor oil) are:
- Argan oil – This is magical oil and one of my favorites for skincare, but I don't use it for cleansing because it's pricey. This is the one I buy for quality and affordability.
- Joboba oil – A great, neutral oil – good for all skin types – I use this one. But like argan, I feel that it's too pricey to use as a main oil for cleansing.
- Apricot kernel oil – Good for normal to dry skin – this one is organic
- Sweet almond oil – Ideal for normal to oily skin – I like this one
Bonus oils (to add in small amounts for added benefits):
- Tamanu oil – Great for acne – I like this one
- Sea buckthorn oil – Nourishing – especially for aging skin. Doesn't smell great, but in small amounts it's fine. I like this one
- Borage oil – For eczema and acne. This one is high quality
Bottom line, if your skin doesn't feel/look great, first make sure that the problem isn't an internal one – something you shouldn't be eating, or an imbalance that needs to be addressed. Then switch up the oil blend until you find the perfect concoction for you.
In my next post, I'll share my secrets for crafting the perfect DIY anti-aging serum which I obsessed over for longer than I care to admit.
Do you use the oil cleansing method? Which oils have you found work best for you?
I had the same problem with coconut oil! Worked okay but I continued to get acne (esp. cystic) on my chin. I know partially it was hormonal but once I switched to jojoba oil & rosehip seed oil (use together or separate) they disappeared! Occasionally I’ll see a hint of them when it’s that time of the month but for the most part – it’s smooth sailin’ in the skin department. When I’m not using rosehip seed oil or jojoba, I treat myself to this heavenly oil blend from Hawaii, stumbled on this Etsy shop, the seller is a sweetheart and her products are superb – https://www.etsy.com/listing/173472097/champagne-serum-by-leahlani-skincare?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=champagne%20serum&ref=sr_gallery_2
This looks wonderful! Do you use this as a way to cleanse or do you leave it on the skin? If you do leave it on, do you cleanse with something else before using it? I’m 39 and have dealt with cystic acne since adolescence despite changing to a very clean paleo diet and eliminating food sensitivities this past year. It’s better but I still break out the week before my period. I’ve been nervous to do oil cleansing!
Hi Casey, just to clarify the process: I scoop out a bit of oil, rub it all over my face, then use a clean, wet washcloth (hot as possible) to steam and then wipe down my face. Hope that helps.
The oils that are non-comedogenic are hemp oil and sunflower/safflower oil. All other oils are more likely to clog pores than these. I like safflower oil, it’s inexpensive and effective. I don’t like to complicate these things.
Sunflower oil is the best for me. My face is very sensitive and I’m very picky when it comes to face soap, make-up or whatever I have to apply on my face. Then I discovered sunflower oil that I apply and leave on after washing my face. I noticed that I rarely have pimples (I now have only a small pimple or two in or before menstrual period) which dries very fast and the red to brown blemish of the pimple disappears in leas than 3 days. I still can’t use make-up but my friends and family say that i don’t need one already, so I only put lipstick everyday and eyeliners occasionally.
Do you recommend it for dry skin ?
Hemp seed and grapeseed oil work really well for me. We just moved the Michigan so I may need to tweak it during winter months.
What would work best for teen acne. My son has a horrible breakout on his forehead, it’s been like that for about 5 months. He doesn’t have oily skin.
My daughter has had acne problems. Skin care routines did little. She has been doing this homeopathic protocol now and it is working really well for her. http://joettecalabrese.com/blog/pippa-pimples-and-homeopathy/
Hi Dawn, thanks for your question. As with all skin conditions, it is important to always heal from the inside out. The problem could be due to hormones exacerbated by diet and stress. Here’s a book you might find useful in addressing the underlying causes.
Poor neem oil, nobody likes how it smells. I think it smells like garlicky peanut butter. Its not a smell I particularly want my body to smell like, but its not really a bad smell to me.
Can you tell me more about calcium d-glucarate? Can it be taken while breastfeeding?
Hi Heather, thanks for the question. Not enough is known about the effects during pregnancy and breastfeeding so it is not recommended.
I had similar issues with the oil cleansing. No matter what I used I was still having breakouts. Then I found a website that explained how the differences in the linoleaic acid of oils affect different skin types. Turns out grape seed oil is the best for my skin. I’ve been using it for months now and finally the breakouts have cleared up.
What website did you use?
Dear please tell me that do you use grapeseed oil alone or mix it with some other oil
And is using grapeseed oil alone good for combination skin……sometimes oily in summers
Hi Ishika, I have not used grapeseed oil but have read that you can and that you can use it for combination/oily skin. If you do try it, please do let us know what you find. I’d love to hear about your experience. xoxo Emily
This list of oils is a great reference. Thank you so much. I have yet to venture into cleansing with oil, though I have heard it before. Can’t wait to try it! One thought I had was that maybe there could be a benefit to routinely changing oils. Not every day, but every once in a while, as a way of giving your skin some different nutrients. I haven’t tested this theory, but I was wondering what other may think of it. 🙂
I love Crunchy Betty! And can’t wait for your serum recipe!!! And why castor oil?
Hi Jessie, yes, I started doing this after reading about it from Crunchy Betty! Castor oil is really effective with the oil cleansing method.
Earlier in the post you touch on the importance of toner. Does using the oil cleansing method eliminate the need to tone and moisturize after cleansing? If not, do you mind sharing which toner and moisturizer you use or suggesting a few?
Hi Kathryn, as you’re not stripping natural oils from your face, you don’t need to use toner with this process.
Using calcium d-glucarate to eliminate excess estrogen sounds interesting. Can you tell us more about this supplement?
I’ve been using the oil cleansing method for about a year now with superior results. I am in my 50’s and was still suffering with breakouts. I corrected my diet (no dairy, limited sugar) but still had breakouts. I learned about this and the rest is history. I use 1 part castor oil, 2 parts olive oil, 1 tsp tea tree oil and a few drops rosemary extract. I do this at night. In the morning, I rinse my face and use a toner made with 4 parts green tea, 1 part apple cider vinegar and 1 tsp calendula hydrosol. Much success!
I was an advocate for oil cleansing method for almost a year. Originally, I used rosehip oil interchangeably with jojoba oil, and everything was great. It even managed to tame my rosacea. But once my skin started to get more bumby and red day by day, I had to find out what was wrong. So my dermatologist said that due to much stress (God help me finish grad school) constant oily environment led to demodex infestation, and I had to feed myself antibiotics and other nasty stuff to rid my face of demodex caused rosacea. My conclusion is — be careful with oil cleansing when your skin is prone to rosacea and your immune system is weakened. Oil cleansing method is meant for healthy strong people living in great environment 🙂
I had a similar experience with oil cleansing. I found a website that explained the difference in the makeup of the oils. Turns out I need the ones higher in linoleaic acid as opposed to Oleic acid. I use grape seed and pumpkin oil now with a few drops of tea tree and clove oil for bacteria. Works great. I now use grape seed as a base for all my skin care concoctions. Read about it on Minimalist Beauty. She explains it great.
Help…..Calcium D glucarate… can we take this while breastfeeding? I’ve been reading about it and it sounds so wonderful. already taking wild yam. please please respond.
Hey Leah, unfortunately not enough is known about it so it is not recommended when pregnant or breastfeeding.
Hi
Do you oil cleanse every night? Do you just rinse with water in the morning? I had tried olive oil and castor oil with negative results. After learning about the need to use oils higher in linoleaic acid as opposed to Oleic acid for acne (on Minimalist Beauty) I tried using pumpkin oil. Unfortunately I developed what I believe was dermatitis. So I stopped breaking out but got this rash instead. Yeesh. I’m wondering if I was over doing it by oil cleansing every night…..
Thank you.
Hi Abey, for the most part, I cleanse every night. You don’t leave the oil on, though. You’ll see in the post that I use a hot face cloth and steam my face with it to remove the oil. Hope that helps.
how did you heal your gut?
I use the oil cleansing method and love it as it has cleared up my facial break outs almost completely except for my black heads.. I seem to have more than I used to around my mouth and on my nose (the nose has always been occupied) Does anyone have a solution or something to add to my routine?
If demodex are active at night and that is when they multiply, then why wouldn’t you leave castor on at night when they will get stuck and killed by oil. It seems like the method could never be fully effective unless you stop them from multiplying?
I have started using hemp oil on my face for at night and omg! Its amazing! I have just been using a warm cloth for in the mornings and moisturizing as normal. My skin feels great! I am going to start playing around with carrot seed oil rose hip and other good for early signs of aging oils to perhaps replace my overly expensive daytime moisturizer. Is there any oils that help with sun protection?
Do NOT get tamanu oil in your eyes.
Source: I did.
I use sesame to cleanse, Argan oil for moisturizer and hair… no problems!! xoxo
I’m using an oil cleanser from Shea Moisture with peace rose oil in it. Seems to be working but I’m also allergic to wheat and when I get tempted and eat it, I break out. Argh gluten free living is so hard
I’m an Aesthetician (25+ years), Aesthetic Laser Tech, and almost finished nursing school. I’ve been experimenting with oil cleansing for about 10 years now. I found this index a while back, just couldn’t figure out why I had blackheads while using Coconut Oil. Because I’m older, my skin has different needs now. I use Hemp Oil and supplement it with other oils on the scale that rate 0. Loved your article. Thanks.
Oops. Here’s the index: https://www.beneficialbotanicals.com/facts-figures/comedogenic-rating.html
Could you tell me where to find these products. In my Walmart?
Hi Jamie, you should be able to find them at a Walmart, however, ensure you are buying organic oils that have not been over processed. You can follow the links on each of the oils to see what brands I recommend. xoxo Emily
Just found your recommendation. Ordered all the stuff and starting tonight. I just turned 40 last week and still break out hoping his helps! Also have dark skin spots will this help with that? I have had luck with Rosen and Fields but it is pricey and feel like it doesn’t work as well after awhile. Thank you
Hi! I’m considering switching to the OCM, but i have a few issues with it. I plan on doing extensive traveling to remote places that won’t have access to hot water. Is hot water necessary in this process? Logic tells me yes but i just want to get another opinion..
Hi Nicole, yes the hot water or a hot cloth is necessary in order to ensure you open up your pores.
One should research linoleic and oleic oils first before choosing an oil for their face. I use pumpkin seed oil which is referred to as “green gold” it has a high amount of linoleic oils which is great for oily, sensitive, acne-prone skin and can even be use by mature skin types. Oleic oils are things with mono saturated fats and do well fro veryyyy dry skin. I also recommend not using the typical oils that we cook with: canola oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil. As they clog pores. (If it works for you then don’t let me stop you) Pumpkin seed oil is sold technically as a cooking oil but it does not clog pores because of its high amount of linoleic oil.
I stopped using coconut oil when I read it was not water soluble. I started using Jojoba oil for my face a while ago but recently started putting it on before my make up. I have found this to work well for me, as it protects my pores.
So glad I found this resource!
I started doing OCM w straight avocado oil last week. Started to see improvements.
Then I made the big mistake of using pure castor oil, undiluted (no one recommends this – I just didn’t research well) , for 2 nights and broke out terribly, especially around smile lines, upper lip, chin, and jaw.
I’m now back to cleansing with avocado oil only, and spot treating the breakouts with neem oil.
My question is – do you think my skin will rebalance itself and the avocado oil will continue to improve my skin? How long should this take (assuming ample water and healthy diet)? Or now that I’ve broken out from the castor oil, I need something different to calm the breakouts down?
Thanks so much!
Hi Anne, your skin should balance itself but expect that it might take some time. Castor oil in itself is not damaging but undiluted could cause a breakout. Be patient and I’m sure all will improve. xoxo Emily
Organic, cold pressed HEMP SEED OIL, zero chance of clogging (non-comedogenic), anti-aging, fights acne, moisturizes and you can take it daily as a supplement or just eat it! Too many good things to list….please do your own research. I also use it in beauty products too, just don’t heat it.